27 November 2009 Pine Island, South of Palm Valley, Florida
We finally made it to Florida. At 0735 Serenity crossed the Saint Mary's River and entered
Florida. What a great feeling. All I wish is that it was a bit warmer. The thermometer in
Serenity's cockpit said 40 degrees when we passed into Florida waters, and it had warmed up
some since getting underway an hour earlier. Folks in Maine tell me it's warmer there than it is
here. Go figure. That's OK. I know that soon Serenity will be sailing in an area where people
have never seen a heavy coat.
Despite the temperature, the day was fantastic. The Sun was bright and the wind was west at
15 to 20 knots and even though we are in the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) we set sail and
motor-sailed all day giving us an excellent days run. Tonight we are anchored just 11 miles north
of Saint Augustine.
We finally made it to Florida. At 0735 Serenity crossed the Saint Mary's River and entered
Florida. What a great feeling. All I wish is that it was a bit warmer. The thermometer in
Serenity's cockpit said 40 degrees when we passed into Florida waters, and it had warmed up
some since getting underway an hour earlier. Folks in Maine tell me it's warmer there than it is
here. Go figure. That's OK. I know that soon Serenity will be sailing in an area where people
have never seen a heavy coat.
Despite the temperature, the day was fantastic. The Sun was bright and the wind was west at
15 to 20 knots and even though we are in the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) we set sail and
motor-sailed all day giving us an excellent days run. Tonight we are anchored just 11 miles north
of Saint Augustine.
| sv Serenity and Serenity Maritime Move to South Florida |
Ten Maine winters as a live-aboard is plenty. So, it's time to make the trip South. At this point, if the
Keys don't grab us and not let go, our destination is Fort Myers Beach. Here we plan to operate as we
did in Maine providing Diving and Salvage services. But this page is about the trip. I hope to share the
sights and experiences encountered along the way. So lets get going.
Keys don't grab us and not let go, our destination is Fort Myers Beach. Here we plan to operate as we
did in Maine providing Diving and Salvage services. But this page is about the trip. I hope to share the
sights and experiences encountered along the way. So lets get going.
West Quoddy Head, Maine
This year was a "yard year" for Serenity. So the beginning of the summer saw her on the
hard at Belfast Boatyard for her once every three year refit. But 2 months of steady rain
made things difficult at best. The Big project was to re-fasten her bows. So on went a tarp
and work began.
Painting had to be done during the few periods of dry weather, so after a while it was
decided to just paint from her rub rail down and get the rest done when we could while in the
water. Even with this plan it was almost 7 weeks until she was once again in the water tied
to Serenity Island, the moored float that Serenity Maritime calls home.
hard at Belfast Boatyard for her once every three year refit. But 2 months of steady rain
made things difficult at best. The Big project was to re-fasten her bows. So on went a tarp
and work began.
Painting had to be done during the few periods of dry weather, so after a while it was
decided to just paint from her rub rail down and get the rest done when we could while in the
water. Even with this plan it was almost 7 weeks until she was once again in the water tied
to Serenity Island, the moored float that Serenity Maritime calls home.
Things did finally get done and the first week of
August it was time to go sailing. I got to thinking
about the trip ahead and decided it would be fun
to conduct sea trials en route to East Port, Maine.
This way when Serenity doubles the Florida
Peninsula she will have sailed the entire U.S. East
Coast in 2009. So off to the Canadian border we
went, and just east of West Quoddy Head (with
no dragon in sight) we came about and started our
trip south. Three weeks of flying and one to pack
up should be just about right. We'll head out
September 15th for Florida.
August it was time to go sailing. I got to thinking
about the trip ahead and decided it would be fun
to conduct sea trials en route to East Port, Maine.
This way when Serenity doubles the Florida
Peninsula she will have sailed the entire U.S. East
Coast in 2009. So off to the Canadian border we
went, and just east of West Quoddy Head (with
no dragon in sight) we came about and started our
trip south. Three weeks of flying and one to pack
up should be just about right. We'll head out
September 15th for Florida.
September 15, 2009
Today was our original planed departure date for Fort Myers Beach. However, diving last week has put things a little behind. We are
not really on a tight schedule so I was happy to take care of the customers who have been so good to me over the past years. This
week will be filled with final work on Serenity and getting Serenity Maritime packed up and ready to roll. Our new proposed departure
date is Monday, September 21st. After that updates will come when ever WiFi is available.
Today was our original planed departure date for Fort Myers Beach. However, diving last week has put things a little behind. We are
not really on a tight schedule so I was happy to take care of the customers who have been so good to me over the past years. This
week will be filled with final work on Serenity and getting Serenity Maritime packed up and ready to roll. Our new proposed departure
date is Monday, September 21st. After that updates will come when ever WiFi is available.
September 18, 2009
Serenity and Serenity Maritime are both ready to go!
This weekend will be filled with fond farewells, last minute provisioning and lots of relaxing. Monday morning the adventure starts.
Serenity and Serenity Maritime are both ready to go!
This weekend will be filled with fond farewells, last minute provisioning and lots of relaxing. Monday morning the adventure starts.
September 21, 2009. The last full day of Summer.
The summer is over and so is our time in Maine. As Serenity gets underway our thoughts are not only of the warm tropical waters for which we are headed, but also of the
very good friends and experiences we leave in our wake. A lot of memories, good and bad, accumulate when you spend a quarter century in a place. Even if I never return to
44 North, I will always be tied here, especially to Penobscot Bay. A special thanks goes out to Craig and Beau. You are both, truly, the best kind of friends. I look forward to
that trip to Havana.
A cruise like this, I hope, is a cleansing time. A time to get ones mind and spirit right with the world. This is the main reason I have chosen not to accept any of the many
offers of friends to act as crew. One man, one small ship and the vastness of the sea. Scary! I can't wait!
I just found out that a colleague, friend and kindred spirit passed away two days ago of a heart attack while working on his boat. Westy, fair winds, you will be remembered.
The summer is over and so is our time in Maine. As Serenity gets underway our thoughts are not only of the warm tropical waters for which we are headed, but also of the
very good friends and experiences we leave in our wake. A lot of memories, good and bad, accumulate when you spend a quarter century in a place. Even if I never return to
44 North, I will always be tied here, especially to Penobscot Bay. A special thanks goes out to Craig and Beau. You are both, truly, the best kind of friends. I look forward to
that trip to Havana.
A cruise like this, I hope, is a cleansing time. A time to get ones mind and spirit right with the world. This is the main reason I have chosen not to accept any of the many
offers of friends to act as crew. One man, one small ship and the vastness of the sea. Scary! I can't wait!
I just found out that a colleague, friend and kindred spirit passed away two days ago of a heart attack while working on his boat. Westy, fair winds, you will be remembered.
Belfast in our wake. 9.21.9
22 September 2009 Rockland, Maine
Here we sit in Rockland Harbor. Didn't get very far the first day did we? A last minute
visit from a very special friend filled the morning yesterday so we didn't get underway
until 1300. It was time well spent and therefore time worth spending. Once underway,
it wasn't long till I realized just how tired I was. A very restless night and the bustle and
emotion of the last couple of weeks had me longing for my bunk, not trying to make and
offing on the Rocky Coast of Maine in the dark. So I decided, discretion being the better
part of valor, to stop at Rockland and get a good nights rest. This morning I woke to a
very thick fog and a cold damp breeze and you guessed it, I'm staying put. The forecast
for tomorrow looks very favorable. So, today I'm relaxing in my little ship, drinking
coffee and listening to soft Jazz and the sounds of the harbor. Tomorrow, well rested,
we head for blue water and places to the south. Where we stop next, only the sea knows.
Supplement: I was glad when this morning I received a phone call from Melody and
Matt. They are on a rambling vacation this week and were en route to Lincolnville. We
met at the Time Out Pub and after a while Lani arrived as well. We had a good visit. It
was great to see them all before I leave.
Here we sit in Rockland Harbor. Didn't get very far the first day did we? A last minute
visit from a very special friend filled the morning yesterday so we didn't get underway
until 1300. It was time well spent and therefore time worth spending. Once underway,
it wasn't long till I realized just how tired I was. A very restless night and the bustle and
emotion of the last couple of weeks had me longing for my bunk, not trying to make and
offing on the Rocky Coast of Maine in the dark. So I decided, discretion being the better
part of valor, to stop at Rockland and get a good nights rest. This morning I woke to a
very thick fog and a cold damp breeze and you guessed it, I'm staying put. The forecast
for tomorrow looks very favorable. So, today I'm relaxing in my little ship, drinking
coffee and listening to soft Jazz and the sounds of the harbor. Tomorrow, well rested,
we head for blue water and places to the south. Where we stop next, only the sea knows.
Supplement: I was glad when this morning I received a phone call from Melody and
Matt. They are on a rambling vacation this week and were en route to Lincolnville. We
met at the Time Out Pub and after a while Lani arrived as well. We had a good visit. It
was great to see them all before I leave.
Rockland, Mane 9.22.9
Leaving Rockland
Sunday, 27 September, 2009 Plymouth, Massachusetts
We were able to get underway in Rockland, Wednesday the 23rd, sailing off the anchor with a light wind
and a calm sea. But just after noon things changed. The wind picked up strong from the SW to the point
that Serenity was working under a double reef and unable to make progress on course. At 0212 on the 24th,
we hove to about 20 miles WSW of Matinicus Rock to ride it out. With the sun came lighter wind and we
were able to make way again on course. In the early afternoon the wind died completely and we were
compelled to motor for a while. That evening the weather forecast called for 30kt plus winds and 9 to 11
foot seas by afternoon on the 25th, so we changed course for Gloucester, MA. By the time we arrived, 13
hours later, the wind was blowing 20 to 25 knots and the sea was building. As I picked up a mooring for the
night I was glad to be in port. We got underway yesterday, the 26th, with calm winds and a heavy swell to
cross Massachusetts Bay. Motoring and motor sailing we arrived at Plymouth shortly after 1300 and at 1345
were securely at anchor. Today it is storming out. High wind and rain. I'm happy to be tucked away and
safe. Due to the forecast winds and the tide at Cape Cod Canal, we will stay here until Wednesday. Then
we will head for Onset, MA before finally heading for Block Island.
We were able to get underway in Rockland, Wednesday the 23rd, sailing off the anchor with a light wind
and a calm sea. But just after noon things changed. The wind picked up strong from the SW to the point
that Serenity was working under a double reef and unable to make progress on course. At 0212 on the 24th,
we hove to about 20 miles WSW of Matinicus Rock to ride it out. With the sun came lighter wind and we
were able to make way again on course. In the early afternoon the wind died completely and we were
compelled to motor for a while. That evening the weather forecast called for 30kt plus winds and 9 to 11
foot seas by afternoon on the 25th, so we changed course for Gloucester, MA. By the time we arrived, 13
hours later, the wind was blowing 20 to 25 knots and the sea was building. As I picked up a mooring for the
night I was glad to be in port. We got underway yesterday, the 26th, with calm winds and a heavy swell to
cross Massachusetts Bay. Motoring and motor sailing we arrived at Plymouth shortly after 1300 and at 1345
were securely at anchor. Today it is storming out. High wind and rain. I'm happy to be tucked away and
safe. Due to the forecast winds and the tide at Cape Cod Canal, we will stay here until Wednesday. Then
we will head for Onset, MA before finally heading for Block Island.
Gulf of Maine
Arriving at Plymouth, MA
Serenity's colors at sea.
Gloucester, MA
30 September, 2009 Onset, Massachusetts
This morning we were up at 0340 to get the halyards rigged and the anchors up. We had set a second anchor due to the high winds and of
course they were twisted. Finally, 0524 both anchors were up and in the moonless dark of the morning Serenity was once again, underway.
We were up at this hour to make Cape Cod Canal at the top of high tide. Current in the canal can reach up to 4.5 knots and when your boat,
at full power, will only do 5 knots you sure don't want to be going the wrong way. We reached the east entrance at 0908 and riding the ebb
tide we entered Onset Harbor at 1025.
In Plymouth we met Jim Aitken of sv Linda Mae, a Bristol 30 sloop homeported in Searsport, Maine and we sailed in company en route to
Onset. Jim is making his fourth trip south for the winter. Upon arriving in Onset he offered a ride into town in his dinghy. As his has an
outboard and mine is Jim powered, I accepted. We found Onset to be a nice, typical New England town. No WiFi could be found however,
so we will have to wait once again to be able to post an update. A cell card for this computer is sounding better and better every day.
Tomorrow will be another early morning for the 11 hour ride to Block Island. My original plan leaving Maine was to head straight there.
Funny how nature can change a plan when she wants to. But tomorrow we should be able to make it....knock wood.
This morning we were up at 0340 to get the halyards rigged and the anchors up. We had set a second anchor due to the high winds and of
course they were twisted. Finally, 0524 both anchors were up and in the moonless dark of the morning Serenity was once again, underway.
We were up at this hour to make Cape Cod Canal at the top of high tide. Current in the canal can reach up to 4.5 knots and when your boat,
at full power, will only do 5 knots you sure don't want to be going the wrong way. We reached the east entrance at 0908 and riding the ebb
tide we entered Onset Harbor at 1025.
In Plymouth we met Jim Aitken of sv Linda Mae, a Bristol 30 sloop homeported in Searsport, Maine and we sailed in company en route to
Onset. Jim is making his fourth trip south for the winter. Upon arriving in Onset he offered a ride into town in his dinghy. As his has an
outboard and mine is Jim powered, I accepted. We found Onset to be a nice, typical New England town. No WiFi could be found however,
so we will have to wait once again to be able to post an update. A cell card for this computer is sounding better and better every day.
Tomorrow will be another early morning for the 11 hour ride to Block Island. My original plan leaving Maine was to head straight there.
Funny how nature can change a plan when she wants to. But tomorrow we should be able to make it....knock wood.
sv Linda Mae
Cape Cod Canal - East
Cape Cod Canal - West
The Tug Cape Roiser in Cape Cod Canal.
I have worked on the bottom of this tug
several times when she was based in
Belfast. I was very surprised to she her
here.
I have worked on the bottom of this tug
several times when she was based in
Belfast. I was very surprised to she her
here.
Entering Onset Harbor
Sunrise leaving Plymouth, Ma
Please double click
photos for a larger view
photos for a larger view
4th October 2009 Great Salt Pond, Block Island, RI
We arrived at Great Salt Pond as the sun was setting on October 1st. By the time we picked a spot and got the anchor
set it was very dark. Our trip from Onset had taken us several hours longer than we had planned but we were here and
happy to be so.
There are three marinas in Great Salt Pond, or New Harbor as it is also known, and on the morning of the 2nd, after a
short phone conversation with the Harbormaster, we picked the one we thought would be closest to town and went in
for fuel and ice. Payne's Dock proved to be a very friendly place indeed. Owned by Cliff Payne, a man taller than
average, but not as tall as me, tan and thin with a scabbard on his hip, the kind sport fisherman carry with a knife and
pliers in it. Interested in peoples stories. Stopping ladies walking on his dock asking, "So, what ya buy?" We chatted
for a while then he ask, "Why aren't ya sailin' today?" I told him I was tired and besides, the weather for the weekend
was forecast bad. He agreed about the weather then offered a mooring, free of charge for our stay. We accepted.
Cliff proved to be only the first of many on this Island who with their generosity and kindness made our stay here very
pleasant indeed.
Saturday, as promised, RAINED. But it proved to be a good day to have the jib below for some needed sewing and
rest for the crew. Sunday, today, was a very nice, sunny and warm, day. The jib was bent back on and the port
whale strake finally got primed. Tomorrow, the 5th will see it painted and another visit to town to post an update.
We plan out departure at 0300 Tuesday the 6th. An early departure will insure a fair tide en route to New London,
CT. One night there then off to Port Jefferson on Long Island. We hope to be in New York City by the weekend.
Wind and weather willing.
We arrived at Great Salt Pond as the sun was setting on October 1st. By the time we picked a spot and got the anchor
set it was very dark. Our trip from Onset had taken us several hours longer than we had planned but we were here and
happy to be so.
There are three marinas in Great Salt Pond, or New Harbor as it is also known, and on the morning of the 2nd, after a
short phone conversation with the Harbormaster, we picked the one we thought would be closest to town and went in
for fuel and ice. Payne's Dock proved to be a very friendly place indeed. Owned by Cliff Payne, a man taller than
average, but not as tall as me, tan and thin with a scabbard on his hip, the kind sport fisherman carry with a knife and
pliers in it. Interested in peoples stories. Stopping ladies walking on his dock asking, "So, what ya buy?" We chatted
for a while then he ask, "Why aren't ya sailin' today?" I told him I was tired and besides, the weather for the weekend
was forecast bad. He agreed about the weather then offered a mooring, free of charge for our stay. We accepted.
Cliff proved to be only the first of many on this Island who with their generosity and kindness made our stay here very
pleasant indeed.
Saturday, as promised, RAINED. But it proved to be a good day to have the jib below for some needed sewing and
rest for the crew. Sunday, today, was a very nice, sunny and warm, day. The jib was bent back on and the port
whale strake finally got primed. Tomorrow, the 5th will see it painted and another visit to town to post an update.
We plan out departure at 0300 Tuesday the 6th. An early departure will insure a fair tide en route to New London,
CT. One night there then off to Port Jefferson on Long Island. We hope to be in New York City by the weekend.
Wind and weather willing.
Sunrise, leaving Onset
Sights around
Block Island, RI
Block Island, RI
Sitting in front of the Block Island
Library. One month after leaving
Wiggins Airways, Life is good!
Library. One month after leaving
Wiggins Airways, Life is good!
5 October, 2009 Juice n' Java, Block Island, RI
Here I sit in a truly organic café. Juice n' Java, where on the specials board is listed
Hemp Shake $5.95
Organic superfood
*Chocolate
*Berry Pomegranate
w/banana if desired
I paid the $5 fee for the WiFi password and ordered a pulled pork sandwich. The
sandwich was soooo good! And, now before I send this update I have to let you all
know about this place. As I write the The Grateful Dead are playing Uncle John's
band and people of every description are enjoying each others company and
drinking the organic bevy of their choice. This is really a nice place. But time to hit
the send button and get back to my little ship Serenity.
Here I sit in a truly organic café. Juice n' Java, where on the specials board is listed
Hemp Shake $5.95
Organic superfood
*Chocolate
*Berry Pomegranate
w/banana if desired
I paid the $5 fee for the WiFi password and ordered a pulled pork sandwich. The
sandwich was soooo good! And, now before I send this update I have to let you all
know about this place. As I write the The Grateful Dead are playing Uncle John's
band and people of every description are enjoying each others company and
drinking the organic bevy of their choice. This is really a nice place. But time to hit
the send button and get back to my little ship Serenity.
7 October 2009 New London, CT
Yesterday we got underway long before sunrise to take advantage of the tide. Unfortunately the wind was still foul and blowing
about 20 knots. So in 3 to 5 foot seas we motored our way to New London. When we first cleared the Great Salt Pond
channel I was wondering what I was doing but after about three hours the sea eased some and the ride became more
comfortable. We pulled into the Thames River, New London, CT at just before noon with a light wind and calm sea. At 1220
we picked up a city mooring and were safe and secure against the 40+ knot winds forecast for today. New London is home to
the Navy's Submarine fleet and to the Coast Guard Academy. It is also a great spot for picking up or dropping off crew. There
is an Amtrak and Greyhound station within walking distance and the Groton Airport is only about a 10 minute drive.
Since we had to stay for a couple of days I decided to take advantage of the city and get some domestic chores done. Also,
tired of hunting for WiFi, I broke down and picked up a Verizon Broadband card for my computer. Updates now will be easier
as will e-mail and all the other nice things a computer can do. Namely, give you timely weather forecasts.
Walking around the streets of New London, it didn't take long to realize I wasn't in Kansas anymore. On Block Island, I had
gotten use to looking people in the eye and saying Hi as I walked past. Here in the city, not only will they not say Hi, they
wont even look at you. Here's to a simple life.
Yesterday we got underway long before sunrise to take advantage of the tide. Unfortunately the wind was still foul and blowing
about 20 knots. So in 3 to 5 foot seas we motored our way to New London. When we first cleared the Great Salt Pond
channel I was wondering what I was doing but after about three hours the sea eased some and the ride became more
comfortable. We pulled into the Thames River, New London, CT at just before noon with a light wind and calm sea. At 1220
we picked up a city mooring and were safe and secure against the 40+ knot winds forecast for today. New London is home to
the Navy's Submarine fleet and to the Coast Guard Academy. It is also a great spot for picking up or dropping off crew. There
is an Amtrak and Greyhound station within walking distance and the Groton Airport is only about a 10 minute drive.
Since we had to stay for a couple of days I decided to take advantage of the city and get some domestic chores done. Also,
tired of hunting for WiFi, I broke down and picked up a Verizon Broadband card for my computer. Updates now will be easier
as will e-mail and all the other nice things a computer can do. Namely, give you timely weather forecasts.
Walking around the streets of New London, it didn't take long to realize I wasn't in Kansas anymore. On Block Island, I had
gotten use to looking people in the eye and saying Hi as I walked past. Here in the city, not only will they not say Hi, they
wont even look at you. Here's to a simple life.
Thames River,
New London, CT
New London, CT
Fort Trumbull
USCG Bark, Eagle
Serenity and Eagle
8 October, 2009 Hold up at Orient Point, NY
This morning we got underway en route to Port Jefferson, NY. Expecting strong wind early,
moderating by late morning and nice this afternoon. What we got was just the opposite.
Getting underway the seas were nice and we were able to make better that six knots, motor sailing
under the jib. By 0745 we had to furl the jib to keep the water out of the cockpit and we were
only able to make 1 to 1.5 knot due to the high seas and wind. After a bit of this and an
amendment to the forecast we decided to head for shelter. We passed through Plum Gut, between
Plum Island and Orient Point with a strong wind and following sea. Boy was it wet! Once in the
lee of Orient point the seas calmed and we anchored off a beach about 2 miles from the gut. Here
we'll stay until at least 1800. If the winds calm, as forecast, we may make an overnight run to Port
Jefferson. And if we feel good in the morning, push on to NYC before tomorrow nights rain.
We'll see.
This morning we got underway en route to Port Jefferson, NY. Expecting strong wind early,
moderating by late morning and nice this afternoon. What we got was just the opposite.
Getting underway the seas were nice and we were able to make better that six knots, motor sailing
under the jib. By 0745 we had to furl the jib to keep the water out of the cockpit and we were
only able to make 1 to 1.5 knot due to the high seas and wind. After a bit of this and an
amendment to the forecast we decided to head for shelter. We passed through Plum Gut, between
Plum Island and Orient Point with a strong wind and following sea. Boy was it wet! Once in the
lee of Orient point the seas calmed and we anchored off a beach about 2 miles from the gut. Here
we'll stay until at least 1800. If the winds calm, as forecast, we may make an overnight run to Port
Jefferson. And if we feel good in the morning, push on to NYC before tomorrow nights rain.
We'll see.
Rough ride through Plum Gut
In the lee of Orient Point
Nicer on the way out!
Port Jefferson, NY
9 October, 2009 Port Jefferson, NY
We weighed anchor at 1730. Just couldn't hang out any longer. We were going to wait until
1800 for a favorable current, but the seas and wind had abated so I decided a few minutes of
foul current wouldn't hurt and away we went.
The ride in the Gut was much better this time 'round. Good thing because the strong current
made for a slow passage through. The rest of the night went by uneventfully with the sea
comfortable and the wind, while not favorable, was not entirely foul either and just before
midnight died all together. Another passage driving Serenity instead of sailing her. I've been
thinking of staying put for a while and waiting for the weather pattern to change and for the
wind to set in from the North. But that could take a month and palm trees are screaming my
name. So we go however we can.
We reached the entrance to Port Jefferson Harbor at 0415 and were anchored and secure at
0455. By the time the covers were on and I was ready for my bunk it was 0530. I was up
yesterday in New London at around 0445 ( Yesterday? Seems like last week). That was a
long, long day.
We weighed anchor at 1730. Just couldn't hang out any longer. We were going to wait until
1800 for a favorable current, but the seas and wind had abated so I decided a few minutes of
foul current wouldn't hurt and away we went.
The ride in the Gut was much better this time 'round. Good thing because the strong current
made for a slow passage through. The rest of the night went by uneventfully with the sea
comfortable and the wind, while not favorable, was not entirely foul either and just before
midnight died all together. Another passage driving Serenity instead of sailing her. I've been
thinking of staying put for a while and waiting for the weather pattern to change and for the
wind to set in from the North. But that could take a month and palm trees are screaming my
name. So we go however we can.
We reached the entrance to Port Jefferson Harbor at 0415 and were anchored and secure at
0455. By the time the covers were on and I was ready for my bunk it was 0530. I was up
yesterday in New London at around 0445 ( Yesterday? Seems like last week). That was a
long, long day.
Up this morning (1030) to rain, wind and overcast skies. Small Craft advisory until tomorrow
noon. Wind right out of the direction I want to go. I guess we'll stay here a while. Sunday is
suppose to be nice so we'll get up early and head for the Big Apple. Until then we'll take
advantage of this time in port to work in the engine room and take care of other routine
maintenance items. But first, I have a book I've been wanting to start. So, where's that bottle
of rum. Time to relax.
noon. Wind right out of the direction I want to go. I guess we'll stay here a while. Sunday is
suppose to be nice so we'll get up early and head for the Big Apple. Until then we'll take
advantage of this time in port to work in the engine room and take care of other routine
maintenance items. But first, I have a book I've been wanting to start. So, where's that bottle
of rum. Time to relax.
Serenity anchored in Little Bay at
the foot of Throgs Neck Bridge
the foot of Throgs Neck Bridge
Execution Rocks
Stepping Stones Light
Approaching Throgs Neck Bridge
11 October 2009 Little Bay, Throgs Neck Bridge, NYC
Up this morning at 0500. Underway as soon as it was light enough to see the buoys that mark the channel at Port Jefferson. Then a
nice 8 1/2 hour cruise to the Big Apple. We anchored in Little Bay at the foot of Throgs Neck Bridge. Here we wait for the proper
tide to be able to clear Hell's Gate, where current and whorl pools make it necessary to plan carefully. Tomorrow morning we will
pass under Throgs Neck Bridge at 0520 to ensure a safe passage, then on to Sandy Hook, NJ.
Up this morning at 0500. Underway as soon as it was light enough to see the buoys that mark the channel at Port Jefferson. Then a
nice 8 1/2 hour cruise to the Big Apple. We anchored in Little Bay at the foot of Throgs Neck Bridge. Here we wait for the proper
tide to be able to clear Hell's Gate, where current and whorl pools make it necessary to plan carefully. Tomorrow morning we will
pass under Throgs Neck Bridge at 0520 to ensure a safe passage, then on to Sandy Hook, NJ.
What do you do when you get bored and you're the only one on the boat? Play with your camera. Here I set a time delay of
10 minutes and clipped the camera in front of the helm. Tomorrow I'll do the same thing on the fore deck and see what kind
of shots we get as we pass through the East River and NY Harbor.
10 minutes and clipped the camera in front of the helm. Tomorrow I'll do the same thing on the fore deck and see what kind
of shots we get as we pass through the East River and NY Harbor.
12 October 2009 East River Passage, NYC
Up at 0445, underway in the dark, 0539. Passed by La Guardia Airport around 0600 with
airliners of all types taking there passengers to points unknown. Remembered when I use to do
that. Remembered doing the East River Departure from Newark. A visual departure. Fly to
Governor's Island, over head the La Guardia tower cap then up Long Island Sound to Boston.
Must be at 1400 ft. In the Metroliner we did it at 200 kts. Now I'm in Serenity making 9.2 kts
over the bottom. Aloft, the smells of my airplane. Coffee, jet fuel, the mornings doughnut, the
passengers. Down on the river the nose is assaulted by the smells of the city. Sulphur from the
oil storage areas, sewage, the scum of tens of thousands of people cramped into a few miles of
real estate. The sun comes up. People jogging, working, going on about there lives and on
board Serenity we're just passing through.
Up at 0445, underway in the dark, 0539. Passed by La Guardia Airport around 0600 with
airliners of all types taking there passengers to points unknown. Remembered when I use to do
that. Remembered doing the East River Departure from Newark. A visual departure. Fly to
Governor's Island, over head the La Guardia tower cap then up Long Island Sound to Boston.
Must be at 1400 ft. In the Metroliner we did it at 200 kts. Now I'm in Serenity making 9.2 kts
over the bottom. Aloft, the smells of my airplane. Coffee, jet fuel, the mornings doughnut, the
passengers. Down on the river the nose is assaulted by the smells of the city. Sulphur from the
oil storage areas, sewage, the scum of tens of thousands of people cramped into a few miles of
real estate. The sun comes up. People jogging, working, going on about there lives and on
board Serenity we're just passing through.
14 October 2009 Atlantic Highlands, NJ
After Clearing NYC we had a pleasant sail to Sandy Hook
then proceeded to Atlantic Highlands, NJ. Took on fuel, ice
and water then anchored. Here we have the choice of 2
marine stores and were able to pick up things Serenity
needed. A sheet block that failed the first night out in the
Gulf of Maine and a bilge pump to replace the one that
failed when we were at Port Jefferson. We also topped up
our propane supply. Now that the nights are getting cool its
nice to be able to run the cabin heater.
Yesterday afternoon we had a big blow and Serenity started
to drag anchor. I recovered the CQR and tried to reset. No
luck. Shipped our big Danforth and tried to set it. Serenity
pulled it like it wasn't even there. Recovered it. Drifted
while I pulled out Ol' Faithful, Serenity's big Fisherman (old
style) anchor. Bent the rode to it and as soon as it hit
bottom we stopped. Once again the old, simple ways prove
to be the best. Someone once told me you never see a sailor
with a CQR or Danforth tattooed on their arm for a reason.
Old style anchors work.
After Clearing NYC we had a pleasant sail to Sandy Hook
then proceeded to Atlantic Highlands, NJ. Took on fuel, ice
and water then anchored. Here we have the choice of 2
marine stores and were able to pick up things Serenity
needed. A sheet block that failed the first night out in the
Gulf of Maine and a bilge pump to replace the one that
failed when we were at Port Jefferson. We also topped up
our propane supply. Now that the nights are getting cool its
nice to be able to run the cabin heater.
Yesterday afternoon we had a big blow and Serenity started
to drag anchor. I recovered the CQR and tried to reset. No
luck. Shipped our big Danforth and tried to set it. Serenity
pulled it like it wasn't even there. Recovered it. Drifted
while I pulled out Ol' Faithful, Serenity's big Fisherman (old
style) anchor. Bent the rode to it and as soon as it hit
bottom we stopped. Once again the old, simple ways prove
to be the best. Someone once told me you never see a sailor
with a CQR or Danforth tattooed on their arm for a reason.
Old style anchors work.
Wednesday, 14 October, 2009 Atlantic Highlands, NJ
Our next planned stop is Cape May, NJ. About 120 miles away, I figure about 30 hours sailing. There are 3 possible anchorages between here and there but
the water in them and the space available to anchor seems a little thin for my taste. Tomorrow night through the week end is suppose to be stormy. So I've
decided to stay here until the weather clears and make a run straight for Cape May instead of riding out a blow somewhere that might not be as safe. So today,
we may get out the paint or we may just sit and read. I haven't decided yet. Maybe we'll get the bike out and ride around and take pictures.
Our next planned stop is Cape May, NJ. About 120 miles away, I figure about 30 hours sailing. There are 3 possible anchorages between here and there but
the water in them and the space available to anchor seems a little thin for my taste. Tomorrow night through the week end is suppose to be stormy. So I've
decided to stay here until the weather clears and make a run straight for Cape May instead of riding out a blow somewhere that might not be as safe. So today,
we may get out the paint or we may just sit and read. I haven't decided yet. Maybe we'll get the bike out and ride around and take pictures.
Thursday, 15 October, 2009 Horseshoe Cove, Sandy Hook, NJ
None of the activities listed above took place. I decided to change my anchors
to maximize my holding ability and while on deck a dingy from another boat
came by saying he hoped I didn't move on their account. I explained what I
was doing and we had a nice chat. He was Cal, from the Catalina 36 "Inida
Wind II." He and wife Nancy hale from Moretown, VT. While chatting he told
of hitting a log in the Hudson river on the way down. I told him about what we
do at Serenity Maritime and shortly after I finished with Serenity's anchors, I
was along side "Inida Wind" with our surface monitored camera lashed to a
boat hook conducting a damage survey. Luckily, just a little paint was
removed. Cal was much relieved and we enjoyed a beer in his cockpit and
discussed the upcoming storm. While there, Ken and Francie from sv
"Release" (Danby, VT) came by and a good time endured.
The weather for the next several days is forecast nasty. Due to this and at the
recommendation of the local tow boat operator, Inida Wind, Release, and
Serenity all relocated to Horseshoe Cove. With the wind forecast out of the
NE at 40 to 45 knots, this spot will give us all a nicer, and we hope safer ride
for the next 3 to 4 days. When things calm, we'll head back to Atlantic
Highland for a visit to the grocery store and wait for the two day weather
window that will get us to Cape May. Of course 5 days of good weather would
get us to Norfolk. If anybody's listening up there.
None of the activities listed above took place. I decided to change my anchors
to maximize my holding ability and while on deck a dingy from another boat
came by saying he hoped I didn't move on their account. I explained what I
was doing and we had a nice chat. He was Cal, from the Catalina 36 "Inida
Wind II." He and wife Nancy hale from Moretown, VT. While chatting he told
of hitting a log in the Hudson river on the way down. I told him about what we
do at Serenity Maritime and shortly after I finished with Serenity's anchors, I
was along side "Inida Wind" with our surface monitored camera lashed to a
boat hook conducting a damage survey. Luckily, just a little paint was
removed. Cal was much relieved and we enjoyed a beer in his cockpit and
discussed the upcoming storm. While there, Ken and Francie from sv
"Release" (Danby, VT) came by and a good time endured.
The weather for the next several days is forecast nasty. Due to this and at the
recommendation of the local tow boat operator, Inida Wind, Release, and
Serenity all relocated to Horseshoe Cove. With the wind forecast out of the
NE at 40 to 45 knots, this spot will give us all a nicer, and we hope safer ride
for the next 3 to 4 days. When things calm, we'll head back to Atlantic
Highland for a visit to the grocery store and wait for the two day weather
window that will get us to Cape May. Of course 5 days of good weather would
get us to Norfolk. If anybody's listening up there.
Sunday, 18 October, 2009 Horseshoe Cove, Sandy Hook, NJ
Still riding out this blow. This makes the fourth day. So far this is the worse. The winds this morning are the
highest yet and Serenity is dancing on her anchors. Nothing too bad, but enough that you know you're glad to be in
port. I had hoped to make it into town today to restock for the trip to Norfolk, but now I think I'll be lucky to get in
tomorrow morning. The forecast still looks good for an afternoon departure tomorrow and we are still hopeful.
Woke up this morning to a chill in the cabin. During the wee hours the propane had run out and the heat went off.
Luckily I had the second bottle filled before moving to this anchorage. So as I write this I am warm and cozy with a
hot cup of coffee, easy Jazz from a Newark radio station playing and the flicker of my fire place as the storm rages
outside. There's only one thing missing.
Still riding out this blow. This makes the fourth day. So far this is the worse. The winds this morning are the
highest yet and Serenity is dancing on her anchors. Nothing too bad, but enough that you know you're glad to be in
port. I had hoped to make it into town today to restock for the trip to Norfolk, but now I think I'll be lucky to get in
tomorrow morning. The forecast still looks good for an afternoon departure tomorrow and we are still hopeful.
Woke up this morning to a chill in the cabin. During the wee hours the propane had run out and the heat went off.
Luckily I had the second bottle filled before moving to this anchorage. So as I write this I am warm and cozy with a
hot cup of coffee, easy Jazz from a Newark radio station playing and the flicker of my fire place as the storm rages
outside. There's only one thing missing.
Stormy day at Horseshoe Cove.
Looking back at Atlantic Highlands, NJ
from Horseshoe Cove.
from Horseshoe Cove.
Monday, 19 October, 2009 Atlantic Highlands, NJ
After four days of a strong blow, today it is like a mill pond here in Atlantic Highlands. No wind at all. Came back
here to provision in preparation for the run to Norfolk. I've decided, that with the forecast good weather, to make for
Norfolk non-stop. If all goes well, Thursday afternoon or some time Friday will see us there.
After four days of a strong blow, today it is like a mill pond here in Atlantic Highlands. No wind at all. Came back
here to provision in preparation for the run to Norfolk. I've decided, that with the forecast good weather, to make for
Norfolk non-stop. If all goes well, Thursday afternoon or some time Friday will see us there.
26 October 2009 Norfolk, VA
Finally rested and recovered from our trip from Sandy hook , it's time once
again to update everyone on our progress. Serenity got underway the
morning of 20 October from Atlantic Highland. The sun was up and we
could not have asked for better winds. The night before, another boat had
anchored next to us and in the morning I saw their wash hanging on their life
lines. These folks obviously have a new born on board. I thought to myself
that that's the perfect way to start out life, the smallest crew member on a
cruising sailboat. The child's parents are to be commended. Children
shouldn't stop your life they should complement it.
Finally rested and recovered from our trip from Sandy hook , it's time once
again to update everyone on our progress. Serenity got underway the
morning of 20 October from Atlantic Highland. The sun was up and we
could not have asked for better winds. The night before, another boat had
anchored next to us and in the morning I saw their wash hanging on their life
lines. These folks obviously have a new born on board. I thought to myself
that that's the perfect way to start out life, the smallest crew member on a
cruising sailboat. The child's parents are to be commended. Children
shouldn't stop your life they should complement it.
A few hours later and about 8 miles off shore we were happy to receive a visitor. A small bird,
obviously tired, landed on Serenity. He flew into the cabin, looked around a little, came back out on
deck, hung out for 10 or 15 minutes, then headed for shore. Nice to have company.
Shortly after our visitor departed so did the wind. So we powered up the iron breeze and settled in for
a long night of driving. At about 0200, just south of Atlantic City, I decided I needed a break so we
headed inland and about a mile and a half off shore, anchored in 23 feet of water and went below to
get some rest. At 0600 the anchor was back on deck and once again we were driving south.
obviously tired, landed on Serenity. He flew into the cabin, looked around a little, came back out on
deck, hung out for 10 or 15 minutes, then headed for shore. Nice to have company.
Shortly after our visitor departed so did the wind. So we powered up the iron breeze and settled in for
a long night of driving. At about 0200, just south of Atlantic City, I decided I needed a break so we
headed inland and about a mile and a half off shore, anchored in 23 feet of water and went below to
get some rest. At 0600 the anchor was back on deck and once again we were driving south.
That afternoon we passed Cape May and decided to proceed to the other side of the Delaware to Cape Henlopen. There is a Harbor of Refuge
there. Designed for large ships it is just a breakwater with a light house but the calm water inside the breakwater sure looked inviting so we
anchored for about 12 hours and got a good nights sleep.
The next morning the wind picked up out of the SW and we started the tacking back and forth that we would do all day and all night. I was
beginning to think I would never get away from Ocean City when the wind finally veered enough to give us an angle to make the Chesapeake. I
decided to motorsail to increase our speed in the hope of being in port that night, before the forecasted next blow started. We anchored in
Willoughby Bay at 2330, 23rd October. We got the covers on, took a shower and crawled, gratefully, into our bunk and slept until 1130 the
next day.
there. Designed for large ships it is just a breakwater with a light house but the calm water inside the breakwater sure looked inviting so we
anchored for about 12 hours and got a good nights sleep.
The next morning the wind picked up out of the SW and we started the tacking back and forth that we would do all day and all night. I was
beginning to think I would never get away from Ocean City when the wind finally veered enough to give us an angle to make the Chesapeake. I
decided to motorsail to increase our speed in the hope of being in port that night, before the forecasted next blow started. We anchored in
Willoughby Bay at 2330, 23rd October. We got the covers on, took a shower and crawled, gratefully, into our bunk and slept until 1130 the
next day.
Cape Henlopen, DE
Naval Air Station, Norfolk, VA
Interesting Vessels they have around here
My view from Willoughby Bay.
Pier 12 of the Norfolk Navy Base. When I was on my first ship,
USS Dwight D. Eisenhower (CVN 69), Norfolk was our homeport
and Pier 12 was where we tied up. Being here is almost like
coming home.
Pier 12 of the Norfolk Navy Base. When I was on my first ship,
USS Dwight D. Eisenhower (CVN 69), Norfolk was our homeport
and Pier 12 was where we tied up. Being here is almost like
coming home.
When we awoke on the 24th the wind was blowing hard and shortly after getting out of my bunk I heard a horn being sounded. I climbed out on deck to see one of the
boats anchored in the harbor dragging anchor and headed directly for the marina breakwater. There appeared to be no one on board and my tired brain was trying to figure
some way of getting on her to stop her when I realized that we too were starting to drag. By the time I had gotten Serenity's anchor up and reset (and a second one set as
well) someone on the other boat had finally come on deck and got her stopped, and not a moment too soon. Another two minutes would have seen her on the breakwater.
The rest of the day was spent resting and watching to ensure we stayed put.
They say when an Angle is needed one appears and on the morning of the 25th one appeared for Serenity and her Crew. I heard a knocking on the hull and when I went on
deck I met Annie of the Schooner Catamaran "Peace." She and her husband Nevel are full time live-a-boards and Built "Peace" themselves. Annie, from Rhode Island, has
been living this life style for the past 30 years and has sailed all over, including three Atlantic crossings in a 28 ft sloop, two of them solo. We talked for awhile about the
excitement the day before and I expressed my desire for anchors better suited to the conditions I would find in the south. She also gave me a great deal of advice regarding
Serenity's upcoming passage through the ICW. Later that afternoon she called me and said she had found me an anchor that was just what I needed. I went ashore and for
the great price of $100 bought a 45 pound CQR.
boats anchored in the harbor dragging anchor and headed directly for the marina breakwater. There appeared to be no one on board and my tired brain was trying to figure
some way of getting on her to stop her when I realized that we too were starting to drag. By the time I had gotten Serenity's anchor up and reset (and a second one set as
well) someone on the other boat had finally come on deck and got her stopped, and not a moment too soon. Another two minutes would have seen her on the breakwater.
The rest of the day was spent resting and watching to ensure we stayed put.
They say when an Angle is needed one appears and on the morning of the 25th one appeared for Serenity and her Crew. I heard a knocking on the hull and when I went on
deck I met Annie of the Schooner Catamaran "Peace." She and her husband Nevel are full time live-a-boards and Built "Peace" themselves. Annie, from Rhode Island, has
been living this life style for the past 30 years and has sailed all over, including three Atlantic crossings in a 28 ft sloop, two of them solo. We talked for awhile about the
excitement the day before and I expressed my desire for anchors better suited to the conditions I would find in the south. She also gave me a great deal of advice regarding
Serenity's upcoming passage through the ICW. Later that afternoon she called me and said she had found me an anchor that was just what I needed. I went ashore and for
the great price of $100 bought a 45 pound CQR.
After provisioning on the 26th we got up with the sun on the rainy 27th and headed down
the Elizabeth river in Norfolk and started our trip down the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW).
As we were leaving Willoughby bay, I was finally able to see which Aircraft carriers were
in port. My heart jumped when I saw the number 69 on the Island of the first. It was
exciting to see the first boat I ever lived on. USS Dwight D. Eisenhower (CVN 69). The
first ship I served in, in the Navy. Along side her was CVN 75, USS Harry S. Truman.
They were a sight to see.
the Elizabeth river in Norfolk and started our trip down the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW).
As we were leaving Willoughby bay, I was finally able to see which Aircraft carriers were
in port. My heart jumped when I saw the number 69 on the Island of the first. It was
exciting to see the first boat I ever lived on. USS Dwight D. Eisenhower (CVN 69). The
first ship I served in, in the Navy. Along side her was CVN 75, USS Harry S. Truman.
They were a sight to see.
Norfolk, VA
After the Elizabeth River you must choose between two routes. We opted for the
Dismal swamp route as it is renowned as the most scenic. The Lock keeper at Deep
Creek Locks maintains a dock just past the lock in honor of his wife Elizabeth. That
night we stayed on Elizabeth's dock and the crews from 4 boats went out to a local
Mexican restaurant for food and fun.
Dismal swamp route as it is renowned as the most scenic. The Lock keeper at Deep
Creek Locks maintains a dock just past the lock in honor of his wife Elizabeth. That
night we stayed on Elizabeth's dock and the crews from 4 boats went out to a local
Mexican restaurant for food and fun.
Peace
Angle Annie and Nevel
Angle Annie and Nevel
Deep Creek lock
Peace and Serenity on Elizabeth's Dock
The Deep Creek Lock Keeper, Robert, has a dog who is
always watching what is going on. His name is U-turn
because as a pup he would run one way then turn around
and run the other then turn around and run back then turn
around and .......
always watching what is going on. His name is U-turn
because as a pup he would run one way then turn around
and run the other then turn around and run back then turn
around and .......
U-Turn insuring all is well at Deep Creek
lock.
lock.
On October 28th we got up and attended a breakfast provided by Robert the
Lock Keeper in the Lock Keepers shack. He does this for the folk who spend the
night on Elizabeth's dock and asks nothing in return. At 0830 the first locking of
the day occurred and it was time to go. The trip down the Dismal Swamp Canal
was uneventful and considering there were times when Serenity had less than a
foot of water under her keel I was grateful for that. The trip was uneventful but
very scenic. I look forward to the next time I can make the trip.
By this time we were traveling with quite a caravan of boats. Everyone
planned to stop at Elizabeth City, NC for the night which made me think space
would be very limited. So, I decided to anchor about 5 miles upstream from town
in the Pasquotank River behind Goat Island. It was nice an quiet and the next day
we went into Elizabeth City without the crowd.
Lock Keeper in the Lock Keepers shack. He does this for the folk who spend the
night on Elizabeth's dock and asks nothing in return. At 0830 the first locking of
the day occurred and it was time to go. The trip down the Dismal Swamp Canal
was uneventful and considering there were times when Serenity had less than a
foot of water under her keel I was grateful for that. The trip was uneventful but
very scenic. I look forward to the next time I can make the trip.
By this time we were traveling with quite a caravan of boats. Everyone
planned to stop at Elizabeth City, NC for the night which made me think space
would be very limited. So, I decided to anchor about 5 miles upstream from town
in the Pasquotank River behind Goat Island. It was nice an quiet and the next day
we went into Elizabeth City without the crowd.
Goat Island
Elizabeth City, NC is a very friendly place for boaters. The town provides free dock space for 48 hours and continuing a tradition, started years ago by two friends known
as the Rose Buddies, every afternoon at 4:30 hosts the crews in attendance to a wine and cheese social where every lady receives a rose. Apart from the friendly
atmosphere, there is also a great deal of history, entertainment and anything else a boater could need. Laundry and Grocer are within an easy walk as are restaurants,
theaters and museums.
as the Rose Buddies, every afternoon at 4:30 hosts the crews in attendance to a wine and cheese social where every lady receives a rose. Apart from the friendly
atmosphere, there is also a great deal of history, entertainment and anything else a boater could need. Laundry and Grocer are within an easy walk as are restaurants,
theaters and museums.
Leaving Elizabeth City on October 30th we were treated to a magnificent
sunrise and when the few clouds that were there departed we had a sunny
day to sail across Albemarle Sound and into the Alligator River. Just before
the Alligator River Swing Bridge we stopped a the Alligator River Marina and
Truck stop. A gas station on the road to the Outer Banks dug a basin and
made a marina. The fuel prices here are some of the lowest you will find in
the area. After fueling we passed through the bridge and headed to our
anchorage for the night. At 1715 we anchored in 7.2 ft of water in a very
lovely and quiet turn in the river.
sunrise and when the few clouds that were there departed we had a sunny
day to sail across Albemarle Sound and into the Alligator River. Just before
the Alligator River Swing Bridge we stopped a the Alligator River Marina and
Truck stop. A gas station on the road to the Outer Banks dug a basin and
made a marina. The fuel prices here are some of the lowest you will find in
the area. After fueling we passed through the bridge and headed to our
anchorage for the night. At 1715 we anchored in 7.2 ft of water in a very
lovely and quiet turn in the river.
Sunrise on the Alligator River, NC
October 31st, 2009.
Halloween took us from the Alligator to Slade Creek, just south of Belhaven, NC on
the Pungo river. A picture is worth a thousand words so I'll let these few photos tell
the story. Remember, you can click the photo to see a larger view.
Halloween took us from the Alligator to Slade Creek, just south of Belhaven, NC on
the Pungo river. A picture is worth a thousand words so I'll let these few photos tell
the story. Remember, you can click the photo to see a larger view.
The 1st of November proved to be full of heavy rain and high wind. So Serenity stayed in Slade creek and the crew took their ease and read "In The Company of Eagles" by
Ernest K. Gann. It was given to be by my friend Rick Cowles just before I left Belfast and this was the first opportunity I've had to read it. On November 2nd it was still cold
and damp but the rain had stopped and the wind had calmed enough that we decided to get underway for Oriental, NC. The wind, for once, was fair and except for one short
stretch through a canal, we were able to sail. It was nice to be underway with the only sound being the wind in the rig and the water passing the hull. We anchored in Oriental
at 1400.
Oriental is known as the Sailing Capitol of North Carolina. It is also home to a small shrimp fleet and some very nice and accommodating people. We spent today, November
3rd, doing maintenance and provisioning for the trip offshore to Charleston, SC. The offshore forecast for tomorrow is foul so we will just stay here and work some more on
Serenity and Thursday the 5th we will make the trip to Beaufort and head, once again into salt water.
Ernest K. Gann. It was given to be by my friend Rick Cowles just before I left Belfast and this was the first opportunity I've had to read it. On November 2nd it was still cold
and damp but the rain had stopped and the wind had calmed enough that we decided to get underway for Oriental, NC. The wind, for once, was fair and except for one short
stretch through a canal, we were able to sail. It was nice to be underway with the only sound being the wind in the rig and the water passing the hull. We anchored in Oriental
at 1400.
Oriental is known as the Sailing Capitol of North Carolina. It is also home to a small shrimp fleet and some very nice and accommodating people. We spent today, November
3rd, doing maintenance and provisioning for the trip offshore to Charleston, SC. The offshore forecast for tomorrow is foul so we will just stay here and work some more on
Serenity and Thursday the 5th we will make the trip to Beaufort and head, once again into salt water.
A cold and damp day of sailing.
Oriental, North Carolina
The morning of 5 November I woke to thick fog. I was glad Serenity was in no hurry to
get underway. We had planned to leave Oriental around 1000 so that we could pass
through Beaufort, NC and out to sea with a fair tide and arrive at Masonboro inlet in
daylight. The fog, the first we've seen on this entire trip, was heavy and gave Oriental a
different feel than the Sun had the previous days. It cleared around 0930 so we got
underway as planned and had a nice and speedy run to Wrightsville Beach.
Between Oriental and Beaufort we had a series of creeks and canals to go through so we
motored until we were out of the Beaufort inlet channel. The winds were light when we
made sail but in a very short time they freshened to the point that we furled the main
completely and sailed under Genoa and Stays'l. The Genny to drive Serenity and the
Stays'l, backed slightly to balance her so she would steer herself. We had a comfortable
ride all night at an average speed of 5.3kts. That afternoon were had some welcome
visitors. First a bird landed on Serenity's bow rail and stayed for a little over half an hour.
When he left he let out a loud call as if to say thanks and good bye. Some time later we
were visited by a pod of Dolphin. It's alway a pleasure to see these mammals of the sea.
The setting sun was very nice and I realized in Maine it's the sunrise that is seen. It's has
been a long time since I last sailed into a sunset.
Serenity's run to Masonboro Inlet was much quicker than I had planned. At midnight,
seeing that we would be at the inlet long before sunrise, I shortened sail down to just the
stays'l and with it sheeted hard amidships and the helm lashed we still were making 3kts.
At 0330 we were about 6 miles offshore with Masonboro Inlet off our beam so we were
compelled to heave-to and wait for sunrise. At 0630 with the sky starting to brighten we
made sail and an hour later furled all sail and motored through the inlet and into the
anchorage at Wrightsville beach. After anchoring and conducting routine maintenance we
went to sleep and rested after our overnight run.
Today, 7 November, I rowed ashore and visited a nice beach town. It was very nice for
this ol' beach bum to see sand dunes and sea oats once again. The feel of a beach town
really feels like home.
Tomorrow, once again, we will be in no hurry to get underway. We will wait until about
0900 so we can take advantage of the strong tidal current in the Cape Fear River and then
another overnight sail to Charleston. I don't think this leg will be as fast as the run to
Wrightsville beach as the winds are forecast lighter. I hope to do it with just one night off
shore but wont be surprised if it takes two. So tonight it's to bed early and sleep in if I
can for it may be three nights before I get another good nights sleep.
get underway. We had planned to leave Oriental around 1000 so that we could pass
through Beaufort, NC and out to sea with a fair tide and arrive at Masonboro inlet in
daylight. The fog, the first we've seen on this entire trip, was heavy and gave Oriental a
different feel than the Sun had the previous days. It cleared around 0930 so we got
underway as planned and had a nice and speedy run to Wrightsville Beach.
Between Oriental and Beaufort we had a series of creeks and canals to go through so we
motored until we were out of the Beaufort inlet channel. The winds were light when we
made sail but in a very short time they freshened to the point that we furled the main
completely and sailed under Genoa and Stays'l. The Genny to drive Serenity and the
Stays'l, backed slightly to balance her so she would steer herself. We had a comfortable
ride all night at an average speed of 5.3kts. That afternoon were had some welcome
visitors. First a bird landed on Serenity's bow rail and stayed for a little over half an hour.
When he left he let out a loud call as if to say thanks and good bye. Some time later we
were visited by a pod of Dolphin. It's alway a pleasure to see these mammals of the sea.
The setting sun was very nice and I realized in Maine it's the sunrise that is seen. It's has
been a long time since I last sailed into a sunset.
Serenity's run to Masonboro Inlet was much quicker than I had planned. At midnight,
seeing that we would be at the inlet long before sunrise, I shortened sail down to just the
stays'l and with it sheeted hard amidships and the helm lashed we still were making 3kts.
At 0330 we were about 6 miles offshore with Masonboro Inlet off our beam so we were
compelled to heave-to and wait for sunrise. At 0630 with the sky starting to brighten we
made sail and an hour later furled all sail and motored through the inlet and into the
anchorage at Wrightsville beach. After anchoring and conducting routine maintenance we
went to sleep and rested after our overnight run.
Today, 7 November, I rowed ashore and visited a nice beach town. It was very nice for
this ol' beach bum to see sand dunes and sea oats once again. The feel of a beach town
really feels like home.
Tomorrow, once again, we will be in no hurry to get underway. We will wait until about
0900 so we can take advantage of the strong tidal current in the Cape Fear River and then
another overnight sail to Charleston. I don't think this leg will be as fast as the run to
Wrightsville beach as the winds are forecast lighter. I hope to do it with just one night off
shore but wont be surprised if it takes two. So tonight it's to bed early and sleep in if I
can for it may be three nights before I get another good nights sleep.
November 12, 2009 Charleston, SC
The passage from Wrightsville Beach to Charleston was, to say the least, uneventful. Serenity got underway on
the morning of 8 November with no wind and so motored through the Cape Fear River and out into the Atlantic
once again. When at sea, there was still no wind and the water was as flat as I have seen the Atlantic for a long
while. Sundown came and with it an odd color to the sky and the reflection in the sea gave me an odd feeling.
As the sun sank below the horizon the normal colors returned and all was well. Before the sun had risen again
the sea built and by the arrival of morning Serenity was motoring along in 3 to 5 foot seas with only a very light
wind. It wasn't until almost 1100 that the wind picked up enough for a sail to hold it's set in the swell. All these
signs, I thought, pointed to the upcoming arrival of "Ida." At 1245 we sailed up the channel into Charleston
Harbor with a strong wind and building sea and I was happy in my decision to motor through the night. Once
anchored the weather set in foul and has remained so ever since. I had hoped by today to be able to go ashore
and explore Charleston. However, this mornings forecast make me wonder if I'll be able to explore at all before
Monday when I plan to push on to my Sister's place in Brunswick, GA.
The passage from Wrightsville Beach to Charleston was, to say the least, uneventful. Serenity got underway on
the morning of 8 November with no wind and so motored through the Cape Fear River and out into the Atlantic
once again. When at sea, there was still no wind and the water was as flat as I have seen the Atlantic for a long
while. Sundown came and with it an odd color to the sky and the reflection in the sea gave me an odd feeling.
As the sun sank below the horizon the normal colors returned and all was well. Before the sun had risen again
the sea built and by the arrival of morning Serenity was motoring along in 3 to 5 foot seas with only a very light
wind. It wasn't until almost 1100 that the wind picked up enough for a sail to hold it's set in the swell. All these
signs, I thought, pointed to the upcoming arrival of "Ida." At 1245 we sailed up the channel into Charleston
Harbor with a strong wind and building sea and I was happy in my decision to motor through the night. Once
anchored the weather set in foul and has remained so ever since. I had hoped by today to be able to go ashore
and explore Charleston. However, this mornings forecast make me wonder if I'll be able to explore at all before
Monday when I plan to push on to my Sister's place in Brunswick, GA.
Fort Sumter
Where the "Shot Heard Around the World"
was fired and started the American Civil War.
Where the "Shot Heard Around the World"
was fired and started the American Civil War.
The City of my birth. Charleston, South Carolina
Odd colors at sunset.
25 November 2009 Cumberland Island, GA
Here we are, sitting at anchor once again, waiting for the rain to stop. It has been a while between updates. I've been
busy and this is the first opportunity to let the reader know what's been going on. Over the past few days I've received several
phone calls and e-mails from folks checking to see if I'm OK, wondering where I am and why I haven't posted an update for
so long. I am truly grateful for the concern of all my friends and am proud that so many of you are following my chronicle of
this trip.
The weather from Ida finally cleared the afternoon of November 14th. I took the opportunity to go ashore to buy
groceries but was unable to explore Charleston as I had planned. Oh well, I guess I now have an excuse to sail back to
Charleston on some future trip. On the morning of the 15th, with the strong ebb tide, Serenity was dancing and pulling on her
anchor rode like a high spirited horse ready to run. At 0843 the hook was up and secured for sea and we made our way back
out into the Atlantic. The sea was comfortable but keeping with the trend on this trip, there was no wind. So the motor was
started and we sail the "iron wind" south, past Savannah, to Saint Simon's Sound, GA. We anchored at 1330 on the 16th at
Lanier Island and called my sister, Pam, to let her know we had arrived but needed sleep. The next couple of days were spent
restocking Serenity and performing routine maintenance. On Friday, 20 November, with Serenity docked at Brunswick
Landing Marina, Pam and I climbed into her car and drove to Fort Walton Beach, Florida to visit our parents and have an
early Thanksgiving celebration. I was back on Serenity Sunday night and Monday, midday, moved back out to the anchorage
at Lanier Island. Early Tuesday morning, November 24, we once again got underway, this time with a fair wind, sailing off
the anchor and into the long channel that took us again into the open Atlantic. We were able to sail most of the day but
mid-afternoon the wind died and once again the motor took us into port.
Here we are, sitting at anchor once again, waiting for the rain to stop. It has been a while between updates. I've been
busy and this is the first opportunity to let the reader know what's been going on. Over the past few days I've received several
phone calls and e-mails from folks checking to see if I'm OK, wondering where I am and why I haven't posted an update for
so long. I am truly grateful for the concern of all my friends and am proud that so many of you are following my chronicle of
this trip.
The weather from Ida finally cleared the afternoon of November 14th. I took the opportunity to go ashore to buy
groceries but was unable to explore Charleston as I had planned. Oh well, I guess I now have an excuse to sail back to
Charleston on some future trip. On the morning of the 15th, with the strong ebb tide, Serenity was dancing and pulling on her
anchor rode like a high spirited horse ready to run. At 0843 the hook was up and secured for sea and we made our way back
out into the Atlantic. The sea was comfortable but keeping with the trend on this trip, there was no wind. So the motor was
started and we sail the "iron wind" south, past Savannah, to Saint Simon's Sound, GA. We anchored at 1330 on the 16th at
Lanier Island and called my sister, Pam, to let her know we had arrived but needed sleep. The next couple of days were spent
restocking Serenity and performing routine maintenance. On Friday, 20 November, with Serenity docked at Brunswick
Landing Marina, Pam and I climbed into her car and drove to Fort Walton Beach, Florida to visit our parents and have an
early Thanksgiving celebration. I was back on Serenity Sunday night and Monday, midday, moved back out to the anchorage
at Lanier Island. Early Tuesday morning, November 24, we once again got underway, this time with a fair wind, sailing off
the anchor and into the long channel that took us again into the open Atlantic. We were able to sail most of the day but
mid-afternoon the wind died and once again the motor took us into port.
Cumberland Island is, by all accounts, a spot that is not to be missed.
The plan was to explore today but a cold rain set in last night so I
decided to take advantage of the time for this update. Tomorrow we
will spend Thanksgiving day exploring, the weather is suppose to be
sunny, then get underway once again on Friday.
For a lot of the trip through Florida I am planning to travel the ICW. I
look forward to the scenery and hope to post updates on a more regular
basis.
As I close this update I would like to wish everyone a happy and safe
Thanksgiving.
Until next time.....
The plan was to explore today but a cold rain set in last night so I
decided to take advantage of the time for this update. Tomorrow we
will spend Thanksgiving day exploring, the weather is suppose to be
sunny, then get underway once again on Friday.
For a lot of the trip through Florida I am planning to travel the ICW. I
look forward to the scenery and hope to post updates on a more regular
basis.
As I close this update I would like to wish everyone a happy and safe
Thanksgiving.
Until next time.....
Charleston, SC
Charleston, SC
Charleston, SC
Saint Simon's Light
Brunswick, GA
Brunswick, GA
Saint Simon's Sound Channel
26 November 2009, Thanksgiving Day Cumberland Island, Georgia
This morning I awoke to a very sunny and bright day. A light breeze blowing from the southwest was just enough.
Anymore and it would have been chilly. After a leisurely breakfast I launched the dinghy and made my way, armed with
both of my cameras, to the National Park Dock. I was only ashore for about three hours but in that short time I filled the
data cards on both cameras. If a person wasn't careful they could become truly entranced with this island and never want
to leave at all.
Cumberland Island was once the center of controversy over development. It finally was made a National Seashore
which ensures that most of the island will remain in its primitive state. Public land acquisition continues and today the
federal government owns about 85% of the Island. No road or causeway from the mainland will ever be built so the only
way to the Island is by boat.
The following was taken from the "Waterway Guide."
In 1783, Nathaniel Greene, who earned fame as one of George Washington's most successful officers during the
Revolutionary War, purchased nearly 11,000 acres on Cumberland Island. In 1803 Greene's widow Catherine built a large
home on the land which she called Dungeness. The mansion burned to the ground mid-century. In 1881, Thomas
Garnegie, brother of steel magnate Andrew Carnegie, and his wife Lucy built another mansion named Dungeness on the
foundation of the Greene estate. Carnegie didn't live to see the completion of the mansion, which stood until 1945, when it
also burned. Mrs, Carnegie commissioned several other mansions for her family, including Plum Orchard, a Georgian
Revival-style mansion which was donated to the National Park Foundation by Carnegie family members in 1971.....
.....When Mrs. Carnegie died, she willed that her horses on Cumberland Island, GA, be allowed to roam wild on the island.
The horses continue to roam wild, fending for themselves to this day.
While walking the beach I was told that this is the longest, undeveloped beach on the U.S east coast.
I hope you enjoy my humble efforts to capture the feel of this beautiful Southern Island. Remember to click on the photos
for a larger view. Happy Thanksgiving to all.
This morning I awoke to a very sunny and bright day. A light breeze blowing from the southwest was just enough.
Anymore and it would have been chilly. After a leisurely breakfast I launched the dinghy and made my way, armed with
both of my cameras, to the National Park Dock. I was only ashore for about three hours but in that short time I filled the
data cards on both cameras. If a person wasn't careful they could become truly entranced with this island and never want
to leave at all.
Cumberland Island was once the center of controversy over development. It finally was made a National Seashore
which ensures that most of the island will remain in its primitive state. Public land acquisition continues and today the
federal government owns about 85% of the Island. No road or causeway from the mainland will ever be built so the only
way to the Island is by boat.
The following was taken from the "Waterway Guide."
In 1783, Nathaniel Greene, who earned fame as one of George Washington's most successful officers during the
Revolutionary War, purchased nearly 11,000 acres on Cumberland Island. In 1803 Greene's widow Catherine built a large
home on the land which she called Dungeness. The mansion burned to the ground mid-century. In 1881, Thomas
Garnegie, brother of steel magnate Andrew Carnegie, and his wife Lucy built another mansion named Dungeness on the
foundation of the Greene estate. Carnegie didn't live to see the completion of the mansion, which stood until 1945, when it
also burned. Mrs, Carnegie commissioned several other mansions for her family, including Plum Orchard, a Georgian
Revival-style mansion which was donated to the National Park Foundation by Carnegie family members in 1971.....
.....When Mrs. Carnegie died, she willed that her horses on Cumberland Island, GA, be allowed to roam wild on the island.
The horses continue to roam wild, fending for themselves to this day.
While walking the beach I was told that this is the longest, undeveloped beach on the U.S east coast.
I hope you enjoy my humble efforts to capture the feel of this beautiful Southern Island. Remember to click on the photos
for a larger view. Happy Thanksgiving to all.
Throughout its history, the story of Fort Matanzas has been closely intertwined with that of the city of St. Augustine. Located fourteen miles north of Fort Matanzas, St. Augustine and the Castillo de San Marcos serve
as outstanding reminders of the might of the early Spanish empire in the New World.
The area of the Matanzas inlet, now preserved within the park boundaries, was the scene of crucial events in Spanish colonial history. The massacre of French soldiers here in 1565 was Spain's opening move in
establishing a colony in Florida. Later, the construction of Fort Matanzas in 1740-1742 was Spain's last effort to ward off British encroachments from the north.
Fort Matanzas represents a very well-preserved masonry watchtower fort built by the Spanish from 1740 to 1742. The tall tower provided a perch to observe vessels approaching St. Augustine from the south, and the
cannon blocked potential enemy advancements up the Matanzas River, the backdoor to St. Augustine.
The Massacre at Matanzas
In 1565, almost 175 years before construction began on Fort Matanzas, another story was played out at the Matanzas Inlet--the massacre of the French Huguenots. A large French force under Jean Ribault had left their
settlement of Fort Caroline in Spanish-claimed territory near present-day Jacksonville to attack the Spanish at their new settlement of St. Augustine (San Agustin).
A storm shipwrecked the French fleet farther south. When the Spanish discovered the French on the beach, they ordered them to surrender, give up their Protestant faith, and accept Catholicism. Being without weapons
or food, they did surrender, but renounce their faith they refused to do. So the Spanish massacred nearly 250 Frenchmen as trespassers and heretics near the inlet which was then appropriately named "Matanzas", the
Spanish word for massacre or slaughter. This confrontation began 235 years of Spanish control in Florida.
as outstanding reminders of the might of the early Spanish empire in the New World.
The area of the Matanzas inlet, now preserved within the park boundaries, was the scene of crucial events in Spanish colonial history. The massacre of French soldiers here in 1565 was Spain's opening move in
establishing a colony in Florida. Later, the construction of Fort Matanzas in 1740-1742 was Spain's last effort to ward off British encroachments from the north.
Fort Matanzas represents a very well-preserved masonry watchtower fort built by the Spanish from 1740 to 1742. The tall tower provided a perch to observe vessels approaching St. Augustine from the south, and the
cannon blocked potential enemy advancements up the Matanzas River, the backdoor to St. Augustine.
The Massacre at Matanzas
In 1565, almost 175 years before construction began on Fort Matanzas, another story was played out at the Matanzas Inlet--the massacre of the French Huguenots. A large French force under Jean Ribault had left their
settlement of Fort Caroline in Spanish-claimed territory near present-day Jacksonville to attack the Spanish at their new settlement of St. Augustine (San Agustin).
A storm shipwrecked the French fleet farther south. When the Spanish discovered the French on the beach, they ordered them to surrender, give up their Protestant faith, and accept Catholicism. Being without weapons
or food, they did surrender, but renounce their faith they refused to do. So the Spanish massacred nearly 250 Frenchmen as trespassers and heretics near the inlet which was then appropriately named "Matanzas", the
Spanish word for massacre or slaughter. This confrontation began 235 years of Spanish control in Florida.
28 November 2009 Matanzas River, Florida at Fort Matanzas
Again this morning it was a little cooler than I like (38F) but in spite of that Serenity was making way
at 0654 under a purple sky with just a hint of red in the clouds as the Sun's upper limb cleared the
horizon. Over the water of the salt marsh a mist was forming but before it could grow into a fog the
warming rays of the sun sent it back from where it came. At 0840 we were in Saint Augustine waiting
for the 0900 opening of the Bridge of Lions, so we had short opportunity to observe and photograph
this historic city all dressed and ready for Christmas. Also we saw the Castillo de San Marcos, a fort
completed in 1695 that protected the city and has a tie to today's destination Fort Matanzas. At 1200
we arrived at the channel that leads to the fort. The sailboat ahead of us had just grounded there and
tried to warn me off, it being low tide. I wanted to see the fort and having done my homework the
night before with the various cruising guides I have aboard, gave it a try and was able to find my way
through the shoal and into the channel without touching bottom. Granted there was a couple of spots
where I thought we would, we couldn't have had more than 6 inches under the keel, but Serenity has
always been a lucky boat and we made it through.
Again this morning it was a little cooler than I like (38F) but in spite of that Serenity was making way
at 0654 under a purple sky with just a hint of red in the clouds as the Sun's upper limb cleared the
horizon. Over the water of the salt marsh a mist was forming but before it could grow into a fog the
warming rays of the sun sent it back from where it came. At 0840 we were in Saint Augustine waiting
for the 0900 opening of the Bridge of Lions, so we had short opportunity to observe and photograph
this historic city all dressed and ready for Christmas. Also we saw the Castillo de San Marcos, a fort
completed in 1695 that protected the city and has a tie to today's destination Fort Matanzas. At 1200
we arrived at the channel that leads to the fort. The sailboat ahead of us had just grounded there and
tried to warn me off, it being low tide. I wanted to see the fort and having done my homework the
night before with the various cruising guides I have aboard, gave it a try and was able to find my way
through the shoal and into the channel without touching bottom. Granted there was a couple of spots
where I thought we would, we couldn't have had more than 6 inches under the keel, but Serenity has
always been a lucky boat and we made it through.
Matanzas Inlet as seen from atop the
Watch Tower of Fort Matanzas.
Watch Tower of Fort Matanzas.
Castillo de San Marcos
Ready for Christmas
St. Augustine Light
29 November 2009 Ponce De Leon Inlet
What a nice day today was to be on the water. It was high tide when we got underway this morning so we had no problem leaving the anchorage at Fort
Matanzas. The tidal range there is about three and a half feet so going over the bar we had a comfortable 4 feet, at least, under Serenity's keel. The day
started out with a high overcast but by 10 o'clock the sky cleared and the temperature worked itself up into the mid 70's. In this area of the ICW and
Florida the population is starting to grow. The open wilderness areas are giving way to closely packed houses with big expensive pieces of plastic floating
on, or rather hanging on their docks. But even with the human element the wild life still abounds. Dolphin, Manatee and Sea Turtles can be seen
swimming by, and birds of every feather huddle together on the banks in the morning for warmth and dive from the heights to catch fish with a splash.
The wind was light to nil, so the sails stayed furled and we motored along for about 7.5 hours before arriving in the area of Ponce De Leon Inlet. When
we arrived at our planned anchorage it was already full of boats. Having been a professional Aviator for over two decades I didn't consider this a problem.
A good Aviator always has an alternate in mind, so I proceeded to my alternate anchorage. However once there, I was frustrated when it was not what I
expected. This, so called, anchorage was not in any of the cruising guides I use, but was highly recommended on one of the cruising websites. Not only
did I not anchor there, I don't think I would anchor there even if I had no other choice. When I did anchor I went online and realized it's rating was based
on only one recommendation so I gave it another and now it's rating is not nearly so high.
So what to do? Destination anchorage....Full. Alternate anchorage.....Bad. I guess we press on. Luckily, I didn't have to go far and I noticed a
number of boats anchored behind a shallow bar. I know it was shallow because someone was standing on it fishing. At least 300 yards from the nearest
visible land and only in water up to his knees. I looked at the chart and it indicated there was plenty of water, all I had to do was find the door. After
about 20 minutes of poking around I was able to find a passage into the deep water and we were anchored and secure at 1446. Looking North I can see
Ponce De Leon Light and South, the Coronado Beach Bridge (photos behind this entry). Tomorrow we should to make Coco Beach where we hope to
see Tony Nelson and his friend Jeannie.
What a nice day today was to be on the water. It was high tide when we got underway this morning so we had no problem leaving the anchorage at Fort
Matanzas. The tidal range there is about three and a half feet so going over the bar we had a comfortable 4 feet, at least, under Serenity's keel. The day
started out with a high overcast but by 10 o'clock the sky cleared and the temperature worked itself up into the mid 70's. In this area of the ICW and
Florida the population is starting to grow. The open wilderness areas are giving way to closely packed houses with big expensive pieces of plastic floating
on, or rather hanging on their docks. But even with the human element the wild life still abounds. Dolphin, Manatee and Sea Turtles can be seen
swimming by, and birds of every feather huddle together on the banks in the morning for warmth and dive from the heights to catch fish with a splash.
The wind was light to nil, so the sails stayed furled and we motored along for about 7.5 hours before arriving in the area of Ponce De Leon Inlet. When
we arrived at our planned anchorage it was already full of boats. Having been a professional Aviator for over two decades I didn't consider this a problem.
A good Aviator always has an alternate in mind, so I proceeded to my alternate anchorage. However once there, I was frustrated when it was not what I
expected. This, so called, anchorage was not in any of the cruising guides I use, but was highly recommended on one of the cruising websites. Not only
did I not anchor there, I don't think I would anchor there even if I had no other choice. When I did anchor I went online and realized it's rating was based
on only one recommendation so I gave it another and now it's rating is not nearly so high.
So what to do? Destination anchorage....Full. Alternate anchorage.....Bad. I guess we press on. Luckily, I didn't have to go far and I noticed a
number of boats anchored behind a shallow bar. I know it was shallow because someone was standing on it fishing. At least 300 yards from the nearest
visible land and only in water up to his knees. I looked at the chart and it indicated there was plenty of water, all I had to do was find the door. After
about 20 minutes of poking around I was able to find a passage into the deep water and we were anchored and secure at 1446. Looking North I can see
Ponce De Leon Light and South, the Coronado Beach Bridge (photos behind this entry). Tomorrow we should to make Coco Beach where we hope to
see Tony Nelson and his friend Jeannie.
Which do you suppose was here first?
Camping, Florida Style
I just liked the colors.
30 November, 2009 Coco, Florida
Underway this morning at 0636, the day progressed with out much excitement. Making our way
down the Indian River working hard to stay in the dredged channel made me think how nice it would
be to be in a boat that only drew two feet of water. This tract of inland water, though wide, is
shallow and one must pay close attention to the track his vessel is making or find himself aground.
As we passed the Kennedy Space Center, we could see the tall assembly building where every type
of space craft, from the Apollo Saturn V to the Space Shuttle, has been put together and made ready
for launch. But we could not get closer than about 2 miles. Not because of restrictions in the area
or fear that the authorities would come and get us. We couldn't get closer because all the water
between us was only three feet or less deep.
Underway this morning at 0636, the day progressed with out much excitement. Making our way
down the Indian River working hard to stay in the dredged channel made me think how nice it would
be to be in a boat that only drew two feet of water. This tract of inland water, though wide, is
shallow and one must pay close attention to the track his vessel is making or find himself aground.
As we passed the Kennedy Space Center, we could see the tall assembly building where every type
of space craft, from the Apollo Saturn V to the Space Shuttle, has been put together and made ready
for launch. But we could not get closer than about 2 miles. Not because of restrictions in the area
or fear that the authorities would come and get us. We couldn't get closer because all the water
between us was only three feet or less deep.
At 1545 we arrived at the Coco Beach Bridge and
anchored in the lee of it's causeway in eight feet of
water. There's a nice park on the causeway so we went
ashore to stretch our legs and walk the mile to the
grocer. Tomorrow, we will make the short trip to
Melbourne and in anticipation of a storm and wanting to
do some work on Serenity, we once again will anchor in
the lee of a causeway.
anchored in the lee of it's causeway in eight feet of
water. There's a nice park on the causeway so we went
ashore to stretch our legs and walk the mile to the
grocer. Tomorrow, we will make the short trip to
Melbourne and in anticipation of a storm and wanting to
do some work on Serenity, we once again will anchor in
the lee of a causeway.
3 December, 2009 Spoil Island off Rock Point
We spent much longer in Melbourne than we really needed to. The forecast arrival of the storm
was pushed back again and again. Then it just missed us altogether. While waiting for the
storm I was able to take care of Serenity's maintenance but a lot of the time was spent wishing I
was making way south. Today when I finally realized the weatherman was going to be wrong
again it was too late to make it anywhere. Frustrated, I decided to move just five miles further
south to an area of spoils island that were suppose to be good anchorages. Spoils Islands are
created when they dredge the channel of the ICW. The material dredged up, the spoil, has to
be put some place, so they, sometimes, make small islands.
Getting behind the island I selected was another lesson in taking Serenity into skinny water. I
was able to find a path and once on the back side was happy to see a sandy beach and lovely
sandbar. We anchored in eight feet of water.
Here I am, anchored off my own private island. The clear water hailed so after donning
mask, fins and snorkel, I went for a swim. On the way to the island I was joined by fish
aplenty and while walking around was watched by many Herons and Gulls, and startled by a
stingray. Although I wondered who startled who the most.
Back on the deck of Serenity it is peaceful. As the Sun went down it turned the sky into a
blue and purple tapestry. "Locomotion" and "Play that Funky Music" came from the radio
down in the cabin and the splashing of fish jumping and the churp, churp, churp from a high
flying Osprey, calling to his mate as he flew off northwest with dinner in his talons filled the air
outside. I'm glad I made the five mile move.
We spent much longer in Melbourne than we really needed to. The forecast arrival of the storm
was pushed back again and again. Then it just missed us altogether. While waiting for the
storm I was able to take care of Serenity's maintenance but a lot of the time was spent wishing I
was making way south. Today when I finally realized the weatherman was going to be wrong
again it was too late to make it anywhere. Frustrated, I decided to move just five miles further
south to an area of spoils island that were suppose to be good anchorages. Spoils Islands are
created when they dredge the channel of the ICW. The material dredged up, the spoil, has to
be put some place, so they, sometimes, make small islands.
Getting behind the island I selected was another lesson in taking Serenity into skinny water. I
was able to find a path and once on the back side was happy to see a sandy beach and lovely
sandbar. We anchored in eight feet of water.
Here I am, anchored off my own private island. The clear water hailed so after donning
mask, fins and snorkel, I went for a swim. On the way to the island I was joined by fish
aplenty and while walking around was watched by many Herons and Gulls, and startled by a
stingray. Although I wondered who startled who the most.
Back on the deck of Serenity it is peaceful. As the Sun went down it turned the sky into a
blue and purple tapestry. "Locomotion" and "Play that Funky Music" came from the radio
down in the cabin and the splashing of fish jumping and the churp, churp, churp from a high
flying Osprey, calling to his mate as he flew off northwest with dinner in his talons filled the air
outside. I'm glad I made the five mile move.
On December fourth and fifth we made our way through Jensen Beach and down to North Palm
beach where we anchored for two days. Here we were happy to see Annie and Nevel of the
Schooner Peace. They are there waiting for fair weather to the Bahamas where they will winter.
I was also able to contact Richard, Terry and Erin Farmer, old friends who I haven't seen in 11
years. They live in Jupiter and it was very good to see them again.
On December seventh, we were underway once again and at 1519 anchored in Lake Boca
Raton.
beach where we anchored for two days. Here we were happy to see Annie and Nevel of the
Schooner Peace. They are there waiting for fair weather to the Bahamas where they will winter.
I was also able to contact Richard, Terry and Erin Farmer, old friends who I haven't seen in 11
years. They live in Jupiter and it was very good to see them again.
On December seventh, we were underway once again and at 1519 anchored in Lake Boca
Raton.
Palms on the roof.
Boca Neighbors
Florida Skyline
Boca Raton
Fort Lauderdale
Miami
Entering the Port of Miami
8 December, 2009 Virginia Key
The population in Southeast Florida is big. Traveling the ICW
here can be an exercise in patience and perseverance. Things
must be timed just right or you spend a lot of time waiting for
restricted bridges to open. So at Port Everglades I decided to
head offshore for Miami. I had hoped to make it to Key
Biscayne today but, due to bridge delays, fell just short and as
the sun went down anchored at Virginia Key next to the
causeway of the Rickenbacker Bridge.
The population in Southeast Florida is big. Traveling the ICW
here can be an exercise in patience and perseverance. Things
must be timed just right or you spend a lot of time waiting for
restricted bridges to open. So at Port Everglades I decided to
head offshore for Miami. I had hoped to make it to Key
Biscayne today but, due to bridge delays, fell just short and as
the sun went down anchored at Virginia Key next to the
causeway of the Rickenbacker Bridge.
9 December, 2009 Rodriguez Key
Woke this morning to a calm day. Underway at 0716 we motored all day,
wondering all the while if people with power boats are smarter than I am or am I
just unlucky when it comes to wind? I doubt I would feel this way if I wasn't under
pressure to get somewhere and get started with something. This pressure I know is
self imposed. But I feel it none the less. I envy people like Annie and Nevel on
Peace and Mic and Bee on Hannah. They are true cruisers, true sailors who have
found the secret to true freedom. In tune with the sea and the wind, traveling where
they will.
We arrived at Rodriguez Key, off Key Largo just as the sun was going down.
The water here is so clear I could see the anchor as it hit bottom. Very nice.
Woke this morning to a calm day. Underway at 0716 we motored all day,
wondering all the while if people with power boats are smarter than I am or am I
just unlucky when it comes to wind? I doubt I would feel this way if I wasn't under
pressure to get somewhere and get started with something. This pressure I know is
self imposed. But I feel it none the less. I envy people like Annie and Nevel on
Peace and Mic and Bee on Hannah. They are true cruisers, true sailors who have
found the secret to true freedom. In tune with the sea and the wind, traveling where
they will.
We arrived at Rodriguez Key, off Key Largo just as the sun was going down.
The water here is so clear I could see the anchor as it hit bottom. Very nice.
Stilt City, Biscayne Bay.
11 December 2009 Boot Key Harbor, Marathon
Well, here we are in Marathon. I am more than a little disappointed. It's not at all what I had
envisioned. A lot of people have said this is a great spot. Judging by the crowd it must be. For me,
however, it doesn't work. I'll be leaving at first light tomorrow and doubt if I'll ever return. If I pause
here, on the way to somewhere else, I think I'll anchor outside of the harbor. I did see a red schooner
I liked though.
Well, here we are in Marathon. I am more than a little disappointed. It's not at all what I had
envisioned. A lot of people have said this is a great spot. Judging by the crowd it must be. For me,
however, it doesn't work. I'll be leaving at first light tomorrow and doubt if I'll ever return. If I pause
here, on the way to somewhere else, I think I'll anchor outside of the harbor. I did see a red schooner
I liked though.
12 December 2009 Fleming Key, Key West, Florida
Back in July I had the idea of cruising, singlehanded, the entire east coast of the
United States. The first week of August, Serenity and I crossed the Canadian
border, turned around and headed south. Today, just after 1500 we doubled Key
West completing the trip. Top to Bottom. My boat and me. But I was never
alone. Via their encouragement and affection all my friends were on the trip as well.
Without them, it would have been a difficult trip indeed.
We anchored at 1549. Tomorrow we get underway for Fort Myers Beach where
we hope to settle for a while and set up business. I hate to see this trip end. I have
learned this is a great lifestyle. It has shown me thing I never thought of. I look
forward to getting out here again.
Back in July I had the idea of cruising, singlehanded, the entire east coast of the
United States. The first week of August, Serenity and I crossed the Canadian
border, turned around and headed south. Today, just after 1500 we doubled Key
West completing the trip. Top to Bottom. My boat and me. But I was never
alone. Via their encouragement and affection all my friends were on the trip as well.
Without them, it would have been a difficult trip indeed.
We anchored at 1549. Tomorrow we get underway for Fort Myers Beach where
we hope to settle for a while and set up business. I hate to see this trip end. I have
learned this is a great lifestyle. It has shown me thing I never thought of. I look
forward to getting out here again.
Key West, Florida
2 January, 2010 Matanzas Harbor, Fort Myers Beach, Florida
We arrived here at Fort Myers Beach on December 14, 2009 at 1048. As soon as we entered
the harbor we knew this is where we want to stop for now. A day of rest was followed by two
days of settling in. Finding storage for the equipment we brought with us and unloading Serenity
was the first order of business. Then it was time to fly back to Maine to get Serenity Searcher and
our truck. Snow storms and a night spent in the terminal at JFK started that trip off with a bang.
But we made it. We are here and so is all of our equipment. Now it is time to learn the area and
get to work.
Serenity and I have done what we set out to do, Top to Bottom, Gulf of Maine to Gulf of
Mexico. This adventure has come to an end. I look forward now, to new adventures and to new
friends. But I will never forget the old.
Thank you for following my trip
Captain Jim Hammond
Serenity Maritime
We arrived here at Fort Myers Beach on December 14, 2009 at 1048. As soon as we entered
the harbor we knew this is where we want to stop for now. A day of rest was followed by two
days of settling in. Finding storage for the equipment we brought with us and unloading Serenity
was the first order of business. Then it was time to fly back to Maine to get Serenity Searcher and
our truck. Snow storms and a night spent in the terminal at JFK started that trip off with a bang.
But we made it. We are here and so is all of our equipment. Now it is time to learn the area and
get to work.
Serenity and I have done what we set out to do, Top to Bottom, Gulf of Maine to Gulf of
Mexico. This adventure has come to an end. I look forward now, to new adventures and to new
friends. But I will never forget the old.
Thank you for following my trip
Captain Jim Hammond
Serenity Maritime